“Skin purging” is a term some people use to describe an increase in acne after starting a new skin care product, such as a retinoid. However, there are no scientific studies on this topic.
Dryness, flaking, or peeling are well-known side effects of some skin care ingredients, such as retinoids. But some people also anecdotally report an increase in acne.
Some say this “purging” is the skin eliminating toxins or impurities. Others say it occurs due to an increase in skin cell turnover, which speeds up acne development.
There is no research to prove either theory, and no studies have examined how common this side effect may be.
Learn more about skin purging, what might cause it, how to treat it, and how it differs from a regular breakout.
“Skin purging” is a term some people use to describe an increase in acne after beginning a new skin care treatment, such as retinoids. However, it is a colloquial term rather than a medical one, and scientists have not studied the concept.
What scientists do know is that some active ingredients in skin care can cause irritation. Many people who start retinoids experience temporary symptoms such as:
- dryness
- flaking
- peeling
This is a result of contact dermatitis, which may sometimes resemble acne, causing bumps on the skin.
Due to a lack of data, it is unclear whether people reporting skin purging are experiencing dermatitis or genuine acne.
An
Supporters of the skin purging concept have several theories about why it may occur. Some say it is a result of toxins or impurities coming to the skin’s surface, resulting in acne. However, there is no evidence to support this.
Others claim that skin purging occurs due to increased skin cell turnover. Cell turnover is the process of shedding and new growth that the skin naturally goes through. As old cells die and shed on the skin’s surface, newer cells from deeper in the skin come to the surface.
This theory argues that increased turnover may speed up the development and healing of acne that was already forming under the skin when a person began treatment. This causes what appears to be a breakout. However, again, there are no studies to back this up.
Ingredients that speed up cell turnover include any that exfoliate the skin. These include:
- retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and adapalene
- alpha hydroxy acids
- beta hydroxy acids
People may find these substances in products for:
- acne treatment
- reducing the visible signs of aging
- reducing an uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation
Purging vs. acne breakout
It is very difficult to say if a person’s acne is due to a skin care product or a regular breakout according to appearance alone.
However, people may be reacting to a specific product if the symptoms:
- shortly begin after they introduce a new product to their routine
- appear exclusively in the areas where they are applying the product
- worsen when they use the product and improve when they stop
In contrast, symptoms that are a result of a typical breakout may:
- affect other body parts beyond the treated area
- continue even after a person stops using the product
Since there is no research on skin purging, there are no specific treatments. However, there are guidelines on what to do if a person experiences a negative reaction to a new product.
For new retinoids or acid products, some mild irritation is common, especially at the start of treatment. The symptoms may get better on their own. If they do not, people can try:
- reducing how frequently they use the product
- reducing the amount they use, starting small and working gradually upward
- switching to a milder formula or lower strength
- using a calming, nonirritating moisturizer for sensitive skin
The skin is particularly sensitive at this stage, so a person needs to avoid:
- touching their face
- scrubbing the skin
- picking blemishes
- peeling off the flaky skin
It is also essential to wear sunscreen every day for as long as a person is using retinoids or acids.
When to stop using a product
Stop using a skin care product right away if it causes more than just mild irritation. This could include:
- severe dryness
- skin cracking
- skin that looks or feels raw
- soreness or burning
- many large or painful spots
- discoloration
- scarring
People should also stop using a product if it could be causing an allergic reaction. Potential signs include:
If a product is worsening an existing condition significantly and affecting mental health, people may also want to speak with a dermatologist about trying an alternative.
Negative reactions to new skin treatments or ingredients can last varying amounts of time, depending on the cause.
For some, the reaction to ingredients such as retinoids is mild and temporary. For others who are more sensitive, it may continue until they stop using the product.
In the case of acne treatments, it can take up to 2 to 3 months for a product to clear spots, but people often see improvements after 6 weeks.
A person can minimize the side effects of new skin care products by slowly easing them into their routine.
The American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD) recommends doing a patch test for new skin care products on a small area of skin, about the size of a quarter, for 7 to 10 days.
If the product does not cause any negative side effects, a person can start using it in other areas. However, it is still important to go slowly. Ingredients such as retinoids and acids often cause irritation to begin with.
A person may wish to begin by applying a retinoid once weekly and then increase it to two or three times weekly.
For exfoliating acids, a person needs to follow the instructions on the product label or the advice of their dermatologist.
Do not use acids or chemical peels more often than the instructions recommend, as this may damage a person’s skin.
If a person is experiencing new or concerning symptoms after starting a new skin care product, they need to consult a doctor or dermatologist.
It is also important to speak with a doctor about any new symptoms that do not go away when a person discontinues the product.
In rare cases, individuals may experience anaphylaxis due to a cosmetic product, which is a life threatening allergic reaction that requires emergency medical attention.
Anaphylaxis: Symptoms and what to do
Anaphylaxis is a severe allergic reaction that can be life threatening. The symptoms develop suddenly and include:
- hives
- swelling of the face or mouth
- wheezing
- fast, shallow breathing
- a fast heart rate
- clammy skin
- anxiety or confusion
- dizziness
- vomiting
- blue or white lips
- fainting or loss of consciousness
If someone has these symptoms:
- Check whether they are carrying an epinephrine pen. If they are, follow the instructions on the side of the pen to use it.
- Dial 911 or the number of the nearest emergency department.
- Assist the person in moving from a sitting position to lying down. If they have vomited, turn them onto their side.
- Stay with them until the emergency services arrive.
Some people may need more than one epinephrine injection. If the symptoms do not improve in 5 to 15 minutes, or they come back, use a second pen if the person has one.
Optum Perks is owned by RVO Health. By clicking on this link, we may receive a commission. Learn more.
Skin purging is an informal term for a temporary increase in acne that some people observe when they begin using a new skin care product. Due to a lack of research on the topic, it is unclear if this is a common side effect or why it occurs.
However, doctors know that certain ingredients, such as exfoliating acids and retinoids, promote skin exfoliation and turnover. This can sometimes come with negative side effects, such as dryness and irritation.
For many, this is temporary and will get better on its own. However, if the reaction persists, gets worse, or causes distress, a person should contact their doctor about what to do.